We couldn’t get away without rain for the whole ten days could we? Well no, and the rain fell steadily this morning as we toured a working seven century old water mill (voted a highlight by all) and then walked around the extraordinary religious city of Rocamadour.
After lunch – a mere bowl of soup and fillet of beef – we did start our walk and finished in good time and more or less dry. The weather has been kind to us but not as kind as the chefs at the Château de la Treyne. Wonderful scampi lasagne, roast maigre, and four or five desserts. With champagne, Sancerre and vintage cognac. It was a party to remember.
From Jim’s journal:
We arise to another lovely breakfast, this time with the addition of quiche to the menu. For the first time since Paris, we experience rain and a decision is made to visit Rocamadour early and hike in the afternoon if the weather permits. Before that, however, we visit a lovely fortified mill—Moulin de Cougneguet—built on a trace or the Wysse River in the village of Les Alix by Cistercian Monks between 1292 and 1350. Originally these mills served as the local “bank” and were fortified to prevent the confiscation of the grain by warring marauders. The mill operated continuously from 1350 until 1959. It is now open for demonstrations of the milling process. Our “guide” has been working for the mill owner for 30+ years and was able to describe in detail the process for turning the grindstones, fashioning the stones to mill different sizes of flours and then sifting to produce the final product. We then drive to Racamadour—the second most visited site in France after Paris named after St. Amadour. This is a spectacular site on the route of the religious Pilgrims, and the site of the “black virgin,” a small statute in the old Abbey chapel in the upper area of the cliffs. The main church is constructed against the cliff with the wall of the cliff forming the outer wall of the church. The village of Racamadour lies beneath the Abbey church and chapel. A truly spectacular area. Due to the weather we skip the picnic and eat lunch at a restaurant across the river gorge facing Racamadour (Le Belvedere). Several opt for salads. John and Jim replace the offered wine with a beer. After lunch, eight of us opt for a five mile hike from the old mill back to the Chateau—a most lovely final walk. Cocktails ensue with many toasts. Champagne provided by the Schultes is rapidly consumed. We toast to the Schultes and to our leaders and staff and to each other. Our final dinner consists of a Scampi Risotto entre, Maigre fish roasted in a fine bohemian-style tart with parmentier sauce for the main course, and biscuit iced rum, coconut bar and sherbet for desert—plus, of course, all of the usual extras. More wine, more toasts, some special Cognac contributed by Rick and then off to bed and another sound sleep.
