The Borders are often overlooked by visitors to Scotland. Arriving in Edinburgh or Glasgow it is natural for the outsider to turn north after spending time in either of these two great cities.. We want to see the highlands, spy the distilleries and the golf courses that make international headlines.
This is a mistake. The history of Scotland, her early formation, the vital role of Christianity and the battles with Northumbria and later the English are all part of the story of the Borders and it is a story told by some of Scotland’s finest writers. This is Scott-land, the home of Sir Walter and the romanticization of the country. Southern Scotland is also the home of Robbie Burns the archetype of Scottish nationalism.
So there is plenty to see. The great abbeys of Jedburgh, Dryburgh and Melrose played a formative part in the construction of what became Alba. Abbotsford is Walter Scotts house just outside Melrose. Floors Castle is just down the road at Kelso and Coldstream still guards the border.
The walking hereabouts is remarkable as well. Saint Cuthbert’s Way leads from the Abbeys to the coast, not so far away, in Northumbria at Lindisfarne. The coast is also fascinating on the way up to North Berwick, passing Saint Abb’s and Dunbar, birthplace of John Muir the great environmentalist, to the dramatic Tantallon Castle. The Southern Upland Way begins at the delightful Saint Abb’s Head and marches across fine scenery all the way to Ayrshire. You can follow the famous Tweed whose banks are lined with fishermen or climb slopes. These are bold, rounded, ancient hills, some forested but many bare and beautiful to walk over. They bring us down to fine towns, like Peebles, or marvellous houses like the famous Traquair, a C12 hunting lodge that is still inhabited today. Near Melrose are the beautiful volcanic Eildon Hills.
The rooms at Burt’s Hotel in Melrose are simple though comfortable but the food there is excellent. There is a good choice between fine dining in the restaurant and truly lovely informal cooking in the lounge bar. I had an interestingly spiced moroccan lamb dish which was warming and hearty as well as being fun and well made. This was followed by an excellent dessert that really belonged in the fine dining section of the hotel. Service was efficient and friendly and the whole hotel just smells of excellent management. Outside Peebles is Cringletie House a fine country house hotel whose grounds in February are carpeted with snowdrops.
The place to stay in the borders though is the Roxburghe, part of the Duke of Roxburghe’s estate just south of Kelso. A fine country house hotel with good food and lovely bedrooms which doesn’t – like so many of these scottish hotels – break the bank. Very good.
