The Col de Vence, February 4th 2012
Last day in the south of France and the snow is still falling. The col de Vence had been taken over by tobogganers and those trying out their latest ski gear. So I made use of the time to visit the towns of St Paul and Vence. Both are known for their connections to the world of modern art; in the 50s and 60s many important figures lived here including Matisse and Chagall.
They would be horrified by the idea of living in St Paul today. The place has been turned into one of those unpleasant museum villages, like Eze, where the streets have been rebuilt and restored so heavily that only luxury survives. The only thing more surprising than the poor quality of the art in the galleries is the price that is being asked for it. The whole area is surrounded by luxury hotels and spas.
Vence still retains a feeling of a town that could be lived in. It is large enough to have people who are neither involved nor interested in modern art and the cafés are places that one can enjoy a drink without being patronised. There are two pieces of interesting art in the town. On an upper road is a Dominican chapel, decorated by Matisse. The little museum attached shows the various possibilities that Matisse worked through before deciding on the calming flowing blues and greens that predominate. The black and white tiled areas are a stark contrast. They perhaps echo the monochromatic dress of the Dominicans but there use here is quite startling. Also the local cathedral has a mosaic by Chagall, tucked into a badly lit corner where the baptismal font is located. This is a beautiful account of the finding of Moses in the bed of rushes as a prefiguring of Christian baptism.
But it is to Saint Paul that the visitor is directed for a fuller account of the modern art scene along the French Riviera. Here is the Fondation Maeght, a private foundation housing works by Miró, Léger, Giacometti, Chillida, Hepworth and many more. I say housing but the true delight of this excellent museum is its relationship with the gardens, terraces and woods that surround the fine piece of modern architecture by Josep Lluís Sert. The larger pieces of sculpture are the high point of the collection, great terraces of Miró sculptures, blocks of Chillida’s granite that echo his own farm museum outside San Sebastián. There is also a fine collection of more recent art in the main buildings as well as interesting temporary exhibitions. It is a fine institution that has been going strong since 1964.
Back to Nice for dinner where a pleasant bistrot, IN VINO, rue d’hôtel de ville, produces an acceptable meal. It only cost ten euros less than last night’s Michelin starred extravaganza however. Why bother?
